You were bored. You had nothing better to do. You were doodling. Though doodles are just random drawings and are usually thrown away, often times there are some great doodles you should keep and use as a reference.
Face it, people have their slumps at least once and this is a great way to jumpstart that void and get the creativity going once more during those tough times.
To the right is a doodle I did years ago. It was a random drawing I did of some females and they turned out pretty well, imo. What I liked about it was the clothing that I randomly drew on the two girls at the bottom part of the page. One girl is wearing a dress and another is wearing pants and a trench coat of some kind. I liked that trench coat design, so I kept this doodle, and I plan to use that design some day.
Again, keep all or select ones you like or shows a good idea or design that you've made. Keep the ones you made at the margins of your notes and cut them out too, if you must.
To keep them all organized, put them into folders, binders, or just draw in one specific place for your doodles (i.e., a sketch book). For select doodles that I cut out, I pasted them on a blank paper along with other cut doodles for easier reference. I then put those papers into a sheet protector and then into a binder.
A sheet protector is a plastic paper holder like card holders which comes in different weights from economy to super heavyweight and transparencies from semi-clear to diamond clear. For this purpose, a semi-clear, economy weight sheet protector is the best and cost-effective but if you prefer-and if you have the money-, diamond clear, economy weight sheet protector works just as well. They usually come in packs of 25, 50, and 100. I use Avery sheet protectors which you can most likely find at your local office store.
Minggu, 19 April 2009
Tha Path of an Artish
You've been drawing and practicing for some time now, when you wonder: when do I move on? When do I start creating my own characters? My own original drawings? When?
The answer: Whenever you want to.
If that's the case, you're asking, then why did I bother putting it here? Easy, there are some people out there who aren't sure what to do next or may "jump the gun" so to speak. I'm here to give you some advice... or at least let you know what to expect.
Look at the two pictures to the right. They look pretty much identical huh? The colored picture was drawn by Rui Araizumi, the artist of Slayers while the black and white one was drawn by me. This here is a very good indicator that if you can copy-draw a picture almost like the original, you're ready to move on.
From this stage is several paths you can take. The first path is not to move on anymore- happily content with just copy-drawing pictures. (What a waste, IMO!)
The second is to draw original pictures of your favorite characters. When I say original- I mean a picture where you drew that character in a pose that you made up yourself, not by looking at a drawn picture as a source. Need an example, look to the left. This picture is of Misato, from Evangelion. Ever seen that background of the waterfall before? Maybe. Ever seen her in a pose like this? Unlikely. Ever seen her in that bathing suit she's wearing? Unless you've read my mind, you won't see this anywhere else. This here is an original picture.
This will help you learn about creating your own ideas: poses, clothes, etc and utimately help you learn and observe spatial relationships when drawing the body. This is a gradual step that I would suggest to aspiring artists to follow first before going to the path that I'll talk about next.
The third path is to skip the path I just talked about and jump headlong into drawing your own characters. Many of you have probably done that already. At some point you may be disappointed at what you draw. Maybe the quality of the drawing isn't like you used to draw. Maybe your clothing ideas just doesn't look good. In effect, you may be all hyped into drawing your own characters that when you actually do it- it looks awful! You'll become depressed, bummed-out, disheartened... perfectly natural reaction. This is all part of the drawing experience but there are some out there who just... stop. Never pick up a pencil or other drawing material for weeks on end. What you need to know is: MOVE ON WITH IT! I know you just don't feel like drawing and when this happens, you should keep learning how to draw- just without drawing- until you want to draw again. Listed below are some things you can do to keep studying drawing without picking up a pencil:
1. Study art history. Watch videos and shows if you have to. Go through some of your favorite painters, drawers, sculptors, etcetera's biography. Maybe even learn about art revolutions: Surrealism, Classical, Dadaism, Cubist, Impressionists, etc. Get some ideas and learn why the great masterpieces are called that. Heck, learn about manga and comic book history too, while you're at it.
2. Pour through drawing books, web sites, magazines, etc. Get your hands on something that teaches you drawing techniques: Anatomy, dynamic poses, sceneries, animals, perspective, etc. If you can get your hands on a manga related drawing book, even better! Make sure you don't limit yourself to just manga books though, there are others that are not manga related but just as informative.
3. Look back into your favorite manga's and comic books. Look at the story telling and the pacing of the panels. What makes the story interesting? What makes you keep reading from one page to the next? Look at panels themselves: why does one have a box enclosing the picture and another has no lines surrounding it? What does that difference make you feel? Analyze and learn from your comic books.
4. Read up on how to write. There are different types of writing techniques for short stories and novels and even by genre's: fiction, fantasy, drama, mystery. Check up on them so you can write better stories for your manga and even in general. Don't skimp out on spelling either- sure you may have a spell check in your editor but it doesn't look good if an artist at a book signing or a convention doesn't know how to spell a word.
Those above are just a few suggestions for you as you go through your slump. Just make sure you don't stop learning- you'll never get back wasted time.
All in all, those are pretty much the paths you may take at your choice. Make sure you choose one that suits you... and good luck!
The answer: Whenever you want to.
If that's the case, you're asking, then why did I bother putting it here? Easy, there are some people out there who aren't sure what to do next or may "jump the gun" so to speak. I'm here to give you some advice... or at least let you know what to expect.
Look at the two pictures to the right. They look pretty much identical huh? The colored picture was drawn by Rui Araizumi, the artist of Slayers while the black and white one was drawn by me. This here is a very good indicator that if you can copy-draw a picture almost like the original, you're ready to move on.
From this stage is several paths you can take. The first path is not to move on anymore- happily content with just copy-drawing pictures. (What a waste, IMO!)
The second is to draw original pictures of your favorite characters. When I say original- I mean a picture where you drew that character in a pose that you made up yourself, not by looking at a drawn picture as a source. Need an example, look to the left. This picture is of Misato, from Evangelion. Ever seen that background of the waterfall before? Maybe. Ever seen her in a pose like this? Unlikely. Ever seen her in that bathing suit she's wearing? Unless you've read my mind, you won't see this anywhere else. This here is an original picture.
This will help you learn about creating your own ideas: poses, clothes, etc and utimately help you learn and observe spatial relationships when drawing the body. This is a gradual step that I would suggest to aspiring artists to follow first before going to the path that I'll talk about next.
The third path is to skip the path I just talked about and jump headlong into drawing your own characters. Many of you have probably done that already. At some point you may be disappointed at what you draw. Maybe the quality of the drawing isn't like you used to draw. Maybe your clothing ideas just doesn't look good. In effect, you may be all hyped into drawing your own characters that when you actually do it- it looks awful! You'll become depressed, bummed-out, disheartened... perfectly natural reaction. This is all part of the drawing experience but there are some out there who just... stop. Never pick up a pencil or other drawing material for weeks on end. What you need to know is: MOVE ON WITH IT! I know you just don't feel like drawing and when this happens, you should keep learning how to draw- just without drawing- until you want to draw again. Listed below are some things you can do to keep studying drawing without picking up a pencil:
1. Study art history. Watch videos and shows if you have to. Go through some of your favorite painters, drawers, sculptors, etcetera's biography. Maybe even learn about art revolutions: Surrealism, Classical, Dadaism, Cubist, Impressionists, etc. Get some ideas and learn why the great masterpieces are called that. Heck, learn about manga and comic book history too, while you're at it.
2. Pour through drawing books, web sites, magazines, etc. Get your hands on something that teaches you drawing techniques: Anatomy, dynamic poses, sceneries, animals, perspective, etc. If you can get your hands on a manga related drawing book, even better! Make sure you don't limit yourself to just manga books though, there are others that are not manga related but just as informative.
3. Look back into your favorite manga's and comic books. Look at the story telling and the pacing of the panels. What makes the story interesting? What makes you keep reading from one page to the next? Look at panels themselves: why does one have a box enclosing the picture and another has no lines surrounding it? What does that difference make you feel? Analyze and learn from your comic books.
4. Read up on how to write. There are different types of writing techniques for short stories and novels and even by genre's: fiction, fantasy, drama, mystery. Check up on them so you can write better stories for your manga and even in general. Don't skimp out on spelling either- sure you may have a spell check in your editor but it doesn't look good if an artist at a book signing or a convention doesn't know how to spell a word.
Those above are just a few suggestions for you as you go through your slump. Just make sure you don't stop learning- you'll never get back wasted time.
All in all, those are pretty much the paths you may take at your choice. Make sure you choose one that suits you... and good luck!
Drawing Material
You can't draw unless you have the proper materials. Here we'll go over some basic, necessary, and optional materials you may want to try out or get for yourself.
Must Have Basics
1) Pencil
Everyone needs a pencil to start off drawing. Most people like to use the #2 or HB pencil. It's standard and it's affordable.
Artists pencils are classed based on the lead used. B refers to soft lead and tends to easily smudge while H refers to hard lead. H pencils are less likely to smudge but are more prone to making indents on your paper. These types of pencil are optional and ranges up to 5, meaning the softest/hardest type of lead.
Another option from the common pencil is the clicky pencil which saves you from constant sharpening by just replacing the lead. If you draw a lot, it's best to get a clicky pencil with a cushion. If you can't get one with it already attached, you can buy the grips separately.
For those using regular pencils, you can extend the life of your pencils by using a pencil extender which tends to be metallic and looks like the end of your pencil sans eraser. Just attach and screw it to the end of you pencil and you're good to go.
2) 8.5"x11" Paper
The most cost effective paper to use is regular printer paper. For one ream with 500 papers, it's a deal at about $3-4 each. For that amount or more, you can get only one sketch pad with about 30 pages +/-. If you're really tight on budget, use printer paper but I would recommend you eventually get regular sketch and doodle pads. The paper in them are thicker and can handle erasing more than printer paper. Not to mention, if you like coloring your work with markers and so forth, the paper won't warp and bend.
Sketch and Doodle Pads come in various sizes. Choose a size that will work for you (i.e. handle markers, size is easy to transport, etc):
9"x12"
10"x15"
3) 12" Ruler
Standard ruler. You'll need one if you want to draw things - especially buildings and items with straight edges. It's also useful for setting up perspective lines.
4) Work Space
In order to work properly, you need a place to draw your stuff. It's best to draw on a desk but worse comes to worse, floor space is all you need. Some people specifically buy the artist's desk which slants and may have additional features such as holders and so forth. If you're tight on budget or space, an ordinary computer desk or table will work just as well.
5) Eraser
You can't draw without an eraser to fix your mistakes. The most common eraser is the pink one (aka Pink Pearl) but the better eraser is the white one. When you use the pink eraser, it tends to leave a pink mark especially if you rub it really hard on the paper. Avoid that by getting the white eraser.
For ease of use, some people use the clicky eraser. Like the clicky pencil, the eraser can be refilled as you use each stick up. Other erasers include the kneaded eraser which is like handling putty or clay. You basically put it over the parts you want to erase and it'll pick it up. To "clean" it, you just need to knead it (i.e. pull it over itself like dough).
Manga Purposes: Starting Off
1) Inking Pens
The are various "inking" pens and the most basic of those that are in pen form (i.e. it already has ink in a tube and is just like using a pen). Whether you used refillable inking pens or not, they all come in various tip sizes. The tip is what determines the size of the line that is drawn. Sizes include: 0.1, 0.5, 1.0, 2.0, etc.
2) Light Box
The light box is a useful tool to have when you need to re-do an image. It comes in handy when doing manga, pin-ups, clothing designs, and even if you're into animation. Light boxes may be bought at the store for about $20+ depending on it's size.
The poor man's light box is to use outside light via the window or use a glass table and shine a light underneath. You can also build your own light box using a wooden box, a glass or plexi-glass, and a bulb. Just visit your local hardware store for the materials, take the time to assemble it, and viola! - instant light box.
3) Templates
Templates come in various shapes and sizes. The most useful of the templates are shape and curved templates. Shape templates have pre-cut shapes stamped into the form such as circles, ovals, squares, diamonds, and rectangles. Instead of wasting your time in measuring and perfecting these shapes, the template saves on time and effort.
The other useful template to have are curved tamplates which are used for making motion and action lines.
You can get more templates such as lettering and other fancy designed outlines but the shape and curved templates are the most important templates to have on hand.
4) Compass
If you can't use a pre-sized template, the next best thing is to use a compass. It'll come in handy when you're doing motion lines such as arcs and bigger round shapes. There are two types of compasses:
a) one with a point on one end and a clasp for pencils on the other
b) one with two claps on both ends so you may put pencils on both ends
Compass A is the easiest compass to get a hold of than B. Either one will work just as fine so no need to sweat it if you can't get B. If you'd rather not waste money on a compass, then you can use a thumbtack and string to make your arcs and circles.
5) Blue Pencil
You've probably seen a pro's work sporting some blue lines. If you don't know already, that's what's called non-photographic blue. Not just any blue pencil will work - it has to specifically say "non-photographic". Artists use this special pencil particularly when doing roughs and sketches. They'll then go over their drawing with permanant black ink. When their work is photocopied or printed out - the blue lines will not show up but the black lines will. Be careful though! If you push the blue pencil hard enough, it will show up on the final product. The trick is to not draw too heavily. It's also easier to erase on lines drawn lightly.
This is very useful for those of you interested in animation.
6) Bendable Ruler
The bendable ruler is a flexible piece of material that you can bend to almost any curved shape you desire. If the compass and template can't make it, then this baby can. It's very useful for those weird wavy lines that will take several steps on a template or compass. You can save on materials by not getting this but as always, your time is the trade-off.
7) T-Square
The T-square is a long ruler with a 90 angle at one end. It's primarily used for that right angle for backgrounds. Now that you're starting out as a manga-artist, this will come in handy for all the backgrounds that you'll be drawing. If you haven't gotten to backgrounds yet - stop avoding it and get it over with. Learn how to draw backgrounds with this thing and it'll make things easier for you... or would you rather measure things all the time? You can do without this but it'll eat away on your time.
8) 18" Ruler
This will come in handy for those papers that are bigger than 12" - and when you start working on submission papers for your manga, the specifications tend to have one side above 12" (particularly when you're submitting to a comic book and not graphic novels). Instead of using a 12" ruler back to back to measure your stuff, an 18" ruler will get the job done without that extra hassle.
9) Doujinshi Paper
When you're starting out, doujinshi paper or "fan-made" paper is the way to go. Doujinshi paper are pre-lined and numbered which makes it easier to draw your lines and where to confine your drawings. If you're short on cash, you can use standard drawing paper and draw in the lines yourself. If you don't have the time - just spend that extra money and get the doujinshi paper. Drawing a comic layout is very time consuming!
Manga Purposes: Advanced
1) Brushes
The brushes is mainly used to apply the correction fluid (aka white out). You can also use it for inking in large areas of black background. It's best to get a thin brush so it may be used for tight areas as well as larger areas.
2) Tones
Tones are used to add depth and interest to a manga. Styles vary from dots, lines, cross-hatches, and things like feathers. You can get actual sheets of tones or you can use digital tones. If you can't find it on the net, you can also make your own tones.
3) Manuscript Paper
Unlike doujinshi paper, this is the real thing that pro's use to submit their work. Japanese ready-made manuscript paper tend to be on the smaller size compared to comic book paper which is about 11"x15". When submitting your material to publishers, make sure you check out their specifications and get the appropriate paper.
4) Cutting Board
A cutting board is used to protect your workspace (i.e. your desk) from the cutting knife. It's usually a clear plastic piece but if you can find something that works just as well, then use it.
5) Cutting Knife
The most reason you will use your cutting knife for is for the tones. To cut and to scratch it to make effects. Otherwise, really no need for you to get this item if you're not using tangible tones.
6) Paper Cement
Paper cement is used for one purpose: to attach your tones to your manga. It's very sticky so be very careful when handling and attaching tones to your work. If you stick something to it accidentally - good luck prying it off.
7) Correction Fluid (White Out)
White usually comes in small bottles or in pen format. What mangaka's usually use come in a bottle with a wide rim to easily dip in a brush.
8) Ink
Ink is what you need if you're using old fashioned pen and nib. It comes in big and smaller bottles. I suggest you get the small bottle and just refill it with the bigger bottle. The best ink is one that is waterproof and fadeproof. Waterproof so your ink won't run if it gets wet and fadeproof so that your ink stays the same color even after X amount of years.
9) Pen and Nib Inking Pens
These are the traditional inking pens that uses a nib. Much like calligraphy, the tip determines the width of the line. There are all types of tips and just as many mankers. Find and use whats best for you and remember to wipe clean your nib from ink after each use. And dry it off so it lasts longer and doesn't start to rust.
Additional Materials
These are optional materials you can use if you're interested in making pin-ups, colored covers, and other handy things to have.
1) Tortillion
Tortillions are paper wrapped up in a spiral. It's used to blend pencils and create that smooth looking transition between black and white. It's a nifty tool to have if you like doing black and white images.
2) Colored Pencil
Colored pencils are one of the most cost effective materials to own if you want to color your drawings. Most colored pencils have hard lead but you there are soft leaded colored pencils as well. If you can get your hands on them, I've found that the most vibrant colored pencils to be made by Prismacolor. They're a bit pricier than the other brands but the results are fantastic.
3) Watercolor, Watercolor Pencil
Watercolor is a good alternative to oil paints and acrylics. Watercolors come in tubes, in palettes, and in pencil format. The watercolors that turn out the best colors are Prang. Others tend to turn out flat in the end.
4) Acrylic
If you want to get into painting on canvases, acrylic is the best way to start. Ventilation is not needed unlike oil paints.
5) Oil Paint
Oil paints is one of the traditional methods of painting on canvases. If you want to use these, make sure you're in a well ventilated area - the fumes are bad for you.
6) Crayons
If you're not picky on what to color your drawings with, then use crayons. They're easy to get and you probably have them already. They're like soft leaded colored pencils.
7) Markers
There are two types of markers: acid and oil-based.
8) Airbrush
Airbrushes create a different effect from other materials because of their spray. Aside from drawing on paper, air brushes may be used to color other things as well such as shirts.
9) Figurines
These are those wooden modeling dolls you see all the time at art stores. They help depict certain poses you may have trouble picturing or drawing. It's a lot handier than getting someone to pose for you or you just can't pose on your own.
There are three types of figurines: male, female, and non-gender specific. Non-gender specific is the most versatile of the three and offers a basic figure between the two sex's.
10) Color Chart
If you're heavily into coloring your drawings, a color chart is highly useful when you want to make a certain color. It helps to keep colors consistant if you mix your paints on your own instead of buying that particular color.
11) Portfolio Wallet
A portfolio wallet is basically a big folder that you store and carry your artwork in. Typical portfolio wallets are made out of paper and have a string to close the folder. More modern wallets are made out of plastic and close with velcro. Some may even have a handle at the top for easier carrying.
Other storage devices include boxes; in paper or metal; and wooden storage units - vertically or horizontally inclined.
Computer Related Materials
1) Photoshop, Corel Draw, GIMP or similar graphic software
If you want to CG your works properly, you have to get a decent graphic software which has the ability to work with layers. Layers allows you to work with certain parts of your drawing one at a time without affecting other areas. Use whatever software works best with you be it Photoshop, Corel, PaintShop Pro, etc.
There are artists out there who use various softwares and even use photo-editing softwares for some neat filter effects. Most graphic software has a trial period - look around and try them out!
2) Drawing Tablet
If you CG artwork on a regular basis and is close to getting carpal-tunnel syndrome - then get your hands on a drawing tablet. If you're on a tight budget, you can get tablets for under $100 but if you have no limit - a tablet can run to the $1000's. The cheapest tablets are Wacom's Graphire series which is an excellent starter tablet.
3) CG Illust
This software is specifically for CGing and Anime artists. Created in Japan, this software has nifty features like the other graphic softwares mentioned above. This software also happens to include some CG tutorials from various artists.
4) Comicworks
Made in Japan, this software is made specifically for the manga and comic creator. It has all the features you would want on a manga software from tones, fonts, and more.
5) Comic Creator
Endorsed by Tokyopop, Comic Creator is another manga and comic creating software. It doesn't have tones but you can use artwork from some Rising Stars of Manga series. It also has the usual balloons, lettering and usual manga creating features.
6) Manga Studio
The most popular manga creating software, it has everything you need from tones, balloons, paneling, lettering and so on. There are two types: Debut and EX with the latter being the "Professional" version, costing more but sporting more tones and 3D models.
Must Have Basics
1) Pencil
Everyone needs a pencil to start off drawing. Most people like to use the #2 or HB pencil. It's standard and it's affordable.
Artists pencils are classed based on the lead used. B refers to soft lead and tends to easily smudge while H refers to hard lead. H pencils are less likely to smudge but are more prone to making indents on your paper. These types of pencil are optional and ranges up to 5, meaning the softest/hardest type of lead.
Another option from the common pencil is the clicky pencil which saves you from constant sharpening by just replacing the lead. If you draw a lot, it's best to get a clicky pencil with a cushion. If you can't get one with it already attached, you can buy the grips separately.
For those using regular pencils, you can extend the life of your pencils by using a pencil extender which tends to be metallic and looks like the end of your pencil sans eraser. Just attach and screw it to the end of you pencil and you're good to go.
2) 8.5"x11" Paper
The most cost effective paper to use is regular printer paper. For one ream with 500 papers, it's a deal at about $3-4 each. For that amount or more, you can get only one sketch pad with about 30 pages +/-. If you're really tight on budget, use printer paper but I would recommend you eventually get regular sketch and doodle pads. The paper in them are thicker and can handle erasing more than printer paper. Not to mention, if you like coloring your work with markers and so forth, the paper won't warp and bend.
Sketch and Doodle Pads come in various sizes. Choose a size that will work for you (i.e. handle markers, size is easy to transport, etc):
9"x12"
10"x15"
3) 12" Ruler
Standard ruler. You'll need one if you want to draw things - especially buildings and items with straight edges. It's also useful for setting up perspective lines.
4) Work Space
In order to work properly, you need a place to draw your stuff. It's best to draw on a desk but worse comes to worse, floor space is all you need. Some people specifically buy the artist's desk which slants and may have additional features such as holders and so forth. If you're tight on budget or space, an ordinary computer desk or table will work just as well.
5) Eraser
You can't draw without an eraser to fix your mistakes. The most common eraser is the pink one (aka Pink Pearl) but the better eraser is the white one. When you use the pink eraser, it tends to leave a pink mark especially if you rub it really hard on the paper. Avoid that by getting the white eraser.
For ease of use, some people use the clicky eraser. Like the clicky pencil, the eraser can be refilled as you use each stick up. Other erasers include the kneaded eraser which is like handling putty or clay. You basically put it over the parts you want to erase and it'll pick it up. To "clean" it, you just need to knead it (i.e. pull it over itself like dough).
Manga Purposes: Starting Off
1) Inking Pens
The are various "inking" pens and the most basic of those that are in pen form (i.e. it already has ink in a tube and is just like using a pen). Whether you used refillable inking pens or not, they all come in various tip sizes. The tip is what determines the size of the line that is drawn. Sizes include: 0.1, 0.5, 1.0, 2.0, etc.
2) Light Box
The light box is a useful tool to have when you need to re-do an image. It comes in handy when doing manga, pin-ups, clothing designs, and even if you're into animation. Light boxes may be bought at the store for about $20+ depending on it's size.
The poor man's light box is to use outside light via the window or use a glass table and shine a light underneath. You can also build your own light box using a wooden box, a glass or plexi-glass, and a bulb. Just visit your local hardware store for the materials, take the time to assemble it, and viola! - instant light box.
3) Templates
Templates come in various shapes and sizes. The most useful of the templates are shape and curved templates. Shape templates have pre-cut shapes stamped into the form such as circles, ovals, squares, diamonds, and rectangles. Instead of wasting your time in measuring and perfecting these shapes, the template saves on time and effort.
The other useful template to have are curved tamplates which are used for making motion and action lines.
You can get more templates such as lettering and other fancy designed outlines but the shape and curved templates are the most important templates to have on hand.
4) Compass
If you can't use a pre-sized template, the next best thing is to use a compass. It'll come in handy when you're doing motion lines such as arcs and bigger round shapes. There are two types of compasses:
a) one with a point on one end and a clasp for pencils on the other
b) one with two claps on both ends so you may put pencils on both ends
Compass A is the easiest compass to get a hold of than B. Either one will work just as fine so no need to sweat it if you can't get B. If you'd rather not waste money on a compass, then you can use a thumbtack and string to make your arcs and circles.
5) Blue Pencil
You've probably seen a pro's work sporting some blue lines. If you don't know already, that's what's called non-photographic blue. Not just any blue pencil will work - it has to specifically say "non-photographic". Artists use this special pencil particularly when doing roughs and sketches. They'll then go over their drawing with permanant black ink. When their work is photocopied or printed out - the blue lines will not show up but the black lines will. Be careful though! If you push the blue pencil hard enough, it will show up on the final product. The trick is to not draw too heavily. It's also easier to erase on lines drawn lightly.
This is very useful for those of you interested in animation.
6) Bendable Ruler
The bendable ruler is a flexible piece of material that you can bend to almost any curved shape you desire. If the compass and template can't make it, then this baby can. It's very useful for those weird wavy lines that will take several steps on a template or compass. You can save on materials by not getting this but as always, your time is the trade-off.
7) T-Square
The T-square is a long ruler with a 90 angle at one end. It's primarily used for that right angle for backgrounds. Now that you're starting out as a manga-artist, this will come in handy for all the backgrounds that you'll be drawing. If you haven't gotten to backgrounds yet - stop avoding it and get it over with. Learn how to draw backgrounds with this thing and it'll make things easier for you... or would you rather measure things all the time? You can do without this but it'll eat away on your time.
8) 18" Ruler
This will come in handy for those papers that are bigger than 12" - and when you start working on submission papers for your manga, the specifications tend to have one side above 12" (particularly when you're submitting to a comic book and not graphic novels). Instead of using a 12" ruler back to back to measure your stuff, an 18" ruler will get the job done without that extra hassle.
9) Doujinshi Paper
When you're starting out, doujinshi paper or "fan-made" paper is the way to go. Doujinshi paper are pre-lined and numbered which makes it easier to draw your lines and where to confine your drawings. If you're short on cash, you can use standard drawing paper and draw in the lines yourself. If you don't have the time - just spend that extra money and get the doujinshi paper. Drawing a comic layout is very time consuming!
Manga Purposes: Advanced
1) Brushes
The brushes is mainly used to apply the correction fluid (aka white out). You can also use it for inking in large areas of black background. It's best to get a thin brush so it may be used for tight areas as well as larger areas.
2) Tones
Tones are used to add depth and interest to a manga. Styles vary from dots, lines, cross-hatches, and things like feathers. You can get actual sheets of tones or you can use digital tones. If you can't find it on the net, you can also make your own tones.
3) Manuscript Paper
Unlike doujinshi paper, this is the real thing that pro's use to submit their work. Japanese ready-made manuscript paper tend to be on the smaller size compared to comic book paper which is about 11"x15". When submitting your material to publishers, make sure you check out their specifications and get the appropriate paper.
4) Cutting Board
A cutting board is used to protect your workspace (i.e. your desk) from the cutting knife. It's usually a clear plastic piece but if you can find something that works just as well, then use it.
5) Cutting Knife
The most reason you will use your cutting knife for is for the tones. To cut and to scratch it to make effects. Otherwise, really no need for you to get this item if you're not using tangible tones.
6) Paper Cement
Paper cement is used for one purpose: to attach your tones to your manga. It's very sticky so be very careful when handling and attaching tones to your work. If you stick something to it accidentally - good luck prying it off.
7) Correction Fluid (White Out)
White usually comes in small bottles or in pen format. What mangaka's usually use come in a bottle with a wide rim to easily dip in a brush.
8) Ink
Ink is what you need if you're using old fashioned pen and nib. It comes in big and smaller bottles. I suggest you get the small bottle and just refill it with the bigger bottle. The best ink is one that is waterproof and fadeproof. Waterproof so your ink won't run if it gets wet and fadeproof so that your ink stays the same color even after X amount of years.
9) Pen and Nib Inking Pens
These are the traditional inking pens that uses a nib. Much like calligraphy, the tip determines the width of the line. There are all types of tips and just as many mankers. Find and use whats best for you and remember to wipe clean your nib from ink after each use. And dry it off so it lasts longer and doesn't start to rust.
Additional Materials
These are optional materials you can use if you're interested in making pin-ups, colored covers, and other handy things to have.
1) Tortillion
Tortillions are paper wrapped up in a spiral. It's used to blend pencils and create that smooth looking transition between black and white. It's a nifty tool to have if you like doing black and white images.
2) Colored Pencil
Colored pencils are one of the most cost effective materials to own if you want to color your drawings. Most colored pencils have hard lead but you there are soft leaded colored pencils as well. If you can get your hands on them, I've found that the most vibrant colored pencils to be made by Prismacolor. They're a bit pricier than the other brands but the results are fantastic.
3) Watercolor, Watercolor Pencil
Watercolor is a good alternative to oil paints and acrylics. Watercolors come in tubes, in palettes, and in pencil format. The watercolors that turn out the best colors are Prang. Others tend to turn out flat in the end.
4) Acrylic
If you want to get into painting on canvases, acrylic is the best way to start. Ventilation is not needed unlike oil paints.
5) Oil Paint
Oil paints is one of the traditional methods of painting on canvases. If you want to use these, make sure you're in a well ventilated area - the fumes are bad for you.
6) Crayons
If you're not picky on what to color your drawings with, then use crayons. They're easy to get and you probably have them already. They're like soft leaded colored pencils.
7) Markers
There are two types of markers: acid and oil-based.
8) Airbrush
Airbrushes create a different effect from other materials because of their spray. Aside from drawing on paper, air brushes may be used to color other things as well such as shirts.
9) Figurines
These are those wooden modeling dolls you see all the time at art stores. They help depict certain poses you may have trouble picturing or drawing. It's a lot handier than getting someone to pose for you or you just can't pose on your own.
There are three types of figurines: male, female, and non-gender specific. Non-gender specific is the most versatile of the three and offers a basic figure between the two sex's.
10) Color Chart
If you're heavily into coloring your drawings, a color chart is highly useful when you want to make a certain color. It helps to keep colors consistant if you mix your paints on your own instead of buying that particular color.
11) Portfolio Wallet
A portfolio wallet is basically a big folder that you store and carry your artwork in. Typical portfolio wallets are made out of paper and have a string to close the folder. More modern wallets are made out of plastic and close with velcro. Some may even have a handle at the top for easier carrying.
Other storage devices include boxes; in paper or metal; and wooden storage units - vertically or horizontally inclined.
Computer Related Materials
1) Photoshop, Corel Draw, GIMP or similar graphic software
If you want to CG your works properly, you have to get a decent graphic software which has the ability to work with layers. Layers allows you to work with certain parts of your drawing one at a time without affecting other areas. Use whatever software works best with you be it Photoshop, Corel, PaintShop Pro, etc.
There are artists out there who use various softwares and even use photo-editing softwares for some neat filter effects. Most graphic software has a trial period - look around and try them out!
2) Drawing Tablet
If you CG artwork on a regular basis and is close to getting carpal-tunnel syndrome - then get your hands on a drawing tablet. If you're on a tight budget, you can get tablets for under $100 but if you have no limit - a tablet can run to the $1000's. The cheapest tablets are Wacom's Graphire series which is an excellent starter tablet.
3) CG Illust
This software is specifically for CGing and Anime artists. Created in Japan, this software has nifty features like the other graphic softwares mentioned above. This software also happens to include some CG tutorials from various artists.
4) Comicworks
Made in Japan, this software is made specifically for the manga and comic creator. It has all the features you would want on a manga software from tones, fonts, and more.
5) Comic Creator
Endorsed by Tokyopop, Comic Creator is another manga and comic creating software. It doesn't have tones but you can use artwork from some Rising Stars of Manga series. It also has the usual balloons, lettering and usual manga creating features.
6) Manga Studio
The most popular manga creating software, it has everything you need from tones, balloons, paneling, lettering and so on. There are two types: Debut and EX with the latter being the "Professional" version, costing more but sporting more tones and 3D models.
Manga
If you're here to learn how to draw or improve your drawing skills - you've come to the right place! Almost everything you need to know will be posted here from basic shading to publishing your work. Of course, how far you get will all depend on you!
A few things you should know about this place first...
1. The tutorials here are meant to help you draw your own original work. There are no how-to's on specific characters. No how-to-draw Sailor Moon, no Kenshin, no Dragon Ball Z, none! Don't bother emailing me about it either - I'll tell you the same thing, and you'll just be wasting my time and yours.
2. All skill levels are welcome to check out the tutorials. Bashing other people for being a beginner or "can't draw well" will not be tolerated. Funny thing is, most of the beginner's have the guts to actually submit their work to the Gallery here than more advanced drawers. That says something there, don't you think?
3. I do not critique art work. Sorry folks but due to all my other projects on this site, it's pretty much keeping me busy. There is a site which does critiques only: The Art Corner. Go check them out!
4. These instructions are not the only way to draw things. If you are comfortable with another way of drawing, than you should stick with it, develop your own style, and learn what you can with what I have up.
5. I do not get paid to suggest any products or other sites that sell products. They get mentioned because they a) have good products, b) shows an example of something I'm talking about, or c) have useful info.
The only sort of payment I get is orders to Amazon.com in the Shop section and my affiliates which helps pay for running this site plus holding the contest (which I hope to hold at least once a year).
All that done and over with - here is a brief guide to some of the more popular terms and styles of Manga:
SHONEN — Boy's manga, usually action/adventure, are aimed at boys 8-18 years old. It is by far the most popular style, and is usually characterized by big battle scenes. Manga such as "Dragon Ball Z", "Yu-Gi-Oh!", and "Yu Yu Hakusho" fall into this category.
SHOJO — Girls' manga are usually story-driven, less action-oriented, and romantic. The second most popular format of manga, it is rapidly becoming a very major part of American manga sales. Titles such as "Sailor Moon", "Love Hina", and "Chobits" are among the most popular titles. Shoujo style manga is usually geared toward female readers ages 12-18.
SEINEN — Seinen manga are series aimed at male readers ages 18-30. While a variation on the Shonen style comics, Seinen series contain more graphic violence and adult situations. AKIRA is a very good example of Seinen manga.
JOSEI — Womens comics aimed at young working women and housewives from ages 21-30. The Manga equivalent of Soap Opera's.
HENTAI — Literally "pervert" manga. Hentai refers to pornographic comics and cartoons. Think any X-rated movie.
JIDAIGEKI — Historical manga, usually action-packed, and battle-oriented. "Lone Wolf and Cub", and "Rurouni Kenshin" are some Jidaigeki.
MECHA — Mecha manga refers to the "Giant Robot" stories such as "Gundam W", "Voltron", and "Big O." They are usually action-oriented with big fights, lots of explosions, and tend to have some kind of "save the world" angle.
BISHOUJO — A very popular manga style, full of cute girls and/or funny animals. Series that fall under this category are "Hamtaro", and "Hello Kitty".
BISHONEN — "Beautiful boy" stories — aimed at teenage girls, and featuring very pretty, almost effeminate looking heroes. Series that fall into this category include "Peach Girl", and "X/1999" by CLAMP.
A few subcategories of the above types are:
SHOUJO-AI — Literally means "girl's love" and covers female-female relationships, usually on a romantical level (aka Yuri).
SHONEN-AI — Literally means "boy's love", with story covering male-male relationships, usually on a romantical level (aka Yaoi).
KODOMO — children's manga, aimed at 6-10 year olds, an offshoot of Bishoujo, shonen, or shoujo styles. Kodomo manga include "Pokemon" and "Digimon".
500 Manga Characters
by Sweatdrop Studios
Pages: 528 (color)
Publisher: Collins Design (July 2007)
ISBN: 0061256528
Chapters:
Introduction
How to us the CD
Teenage Female Contemporary
Teenage Female Traditional Asian
Teenage Male Contemporary
Teenage Male Traditional Asian
Fantasy
Action
Sci-Fi
Historical
Gothic Lolita
Child Male
Child Female
Adult Male
Adult Female
Chibi Male
Chibi Female
Villians
Mecha
Monsters
Animals
Hardware
Software
Basic Tools
Brush Tools
Blocking in Colors
Light and Shade
Airbrush and Beyond
Artists
License Agreement
Read this book? Tell us what you thought of it! Send your review to rio[AT]mangatutorials[DOT]com. Make sure you include a reason why you like and/or dislike the book.
Book Review by Ken
This is the second volume to the Manga Clip Art series and I must say that I find it much better than the previous volume. First off, it is in the same format as the original - hardcover, a circular cut-out within the center of the book where the CD containing all the artwork is held, and it contains 128 color pages of tutorials and artwork. It is also available at the same low price of $20 USD or under depending on where you buy it.
Though only one artist is involved in this volume, Yishan Li has taken the pains to do a nice mix of manga drawing styles which will sate those of you who prefer to have a variety to work on. Aside from the differing styles Li presents, overall, the quality of her drawings are kept at a high bar so you will not find any gradeschooler-like drawn characters much to my relief.
The first third of the book instructs readers on the what's, how's, and where's of digital coloring from the materials needed to actual tutorials on coloring in cel shading, airbrushing, and painting (or natural media as they call it) style. What I really like about this first half of the book is how they walk you through into how to create the characters by adjusting, rotating, resizing, and adding layers. How to work with the materials within the book is key and much more important than learning how to color it, however nicely that part of the book is presented, and I must say that it was done in an easy-to-understand manner.
In regards to the artwork, they are divided into two sets; characters and everything else (i.e. backgrounds and accessories). The female characters within this book were set in the following fashion styles: contemporary, sci-fi, traditional Asian, traditional European, warrior, child, and kawaii (aka chibi's). Each "fashion style" features four pages of sample characters that may be made in three drawing styles done by Li. These samples feature a nifty box that shows you exactly which parts were used to make the characters and beside each character is a list of the specific part used. A rather nifty addition for those who want to ape a particular look.
For such a gender specific book, I think it would have been nice if older women were also available. All the characters within the book can be seen as, at most, middle-aged and younger but where are the grandmothers? I understand the book is marketed towards the younger generation who are more interested in their own age group or younger but I find it disappointing that the older generation are not represented in some way. If you're artistically inclined, though, this wouldn't be a problem but artistically-challenged individuals will have to make do without the golden girls.
Moving on to backgrounds and accessories, I have one thing to say: bea-u-tiful! I can't stress that enough! The backgrounds are absolutely gorgeous! The amount of details and the composition of the backgrounds are downright fantastic. I almost feel like they were taken from photos - they're that good. With such great backgrounds, I feel sort of put out that there isn't more though eight is a lot more than what was present in the first Manga Clip Art book. The accessories are just as detailed and I will say that you will find nothing to criticize (except maybe that the game console Li drew is a PSP when everyone knows that the DS is so much better! ;D ).
There is one downside to what I just said and that is with all the details found in the backgrounds, there are bound to be some things that get missed. Case in point, one particular background had lines that should've been cleaned out. Being an artist myself, things like that bother me as I consider such errors as sloppiness. For those of you who don't want to fix them or can't seem to find them, this is not really a problem as the average person who looks at drawings don't look at the details and won't see these mistakes.
Last but not least, this book is also allows buyers to use the artwork for commercial purposes. For full details on what you can and cannot do with the assets, check out the license agreement here. All artwork are is PSD format with layers intact and ready for you to manipulate. With that said, with PSD files only available in the CD, that requires you to have a software that can handle it. Though Photoshop would be the best software to use, there are free alternatives like GIMP out there for you.
Below are some scans taken from the book. Have a look!
tips ~ europe ~ modern ~ chibi 1 ~ closeup ~ manipulate ~ chibi 2 ~ fighters ~ background ~ chibi 3 ~ cg ~ asia
A few things you should know about this place first...
1. The tutorials here are meant to help you draw your own original work. There are no how-to's on specific characters. No how-to-draw Sailor Moon, no Kenshin, no Dragon Ball Z, none! Don't bother emailing me about it either - I'll tell you the same thing, and you'll just be wasting my time and yours.
2. All skill levels are welcome to check out the tutorials. Bashing other people for being a beginner or "can't draw well" will not be tolerated. Funny thing is, most of the beginner's have the guts to actually submit their work to the Gallery here than more advanced drawers. That says something there, don't you think?
3. I do not critique art work. Sorry folks but due to all my other projects on this site, it's pretty much keeping me busy. There is a site which does critiques only: The Art Corner. Go check them out!
4. These instructions are not the only way to draw things. If you are comfortable with another way of drawing, than you should stick with it, develop your own style, and learn what you can with what I have up.
5. I do not get paid to suggest any products or other sites that sell products. They get mentioned because they a) have good products, b) shows an example of something I'm talking about, or c) have useful info.
The only sort of payment I get is orders to Amazon.com in the Shop section and my affiliates which helps pay for running this site plus holding the contest (which I hope to hold at least once a year).
All that done and over with - here is a brief guide to some of the more popular terms and styles of Manga:
SHONEN — Boy's manga, usually action/adventure, are aimed at boys 8-18 years old. It is by far the most popular style, and is usually characterized by big battle scenes. Manga such as "Dragon Ball Z", "Yu-Gi-Oh!", and "Yu Yu Hakusho" fall into this category.
SHOJO — Girls' manga are usually story-driven, less action-oriented, and romantic. The second most popular format of manga, it is rapidly becoming a very major part of American manga sales. Titles such as "Sailor Moon", "Love Hina", and "Chobits" are among the most popular titles. Shoujo style manga is usually geared toward female readers ages 12-18.
SEINEN — Seinen manga are series aimed at male readers ages 18-30. While a variation on the Shonen style comics, Seinen series contain more graphic violence and adult situations. AKIRA is a very good example of Seinen manga.
JOSEI — Womens comics aimed at young working women and housewives from ages 21-30. The Manga equivalent of Soap Opera's.
HENTAI — Literally "pervert" manga. Hentai refers to pornographic comics and cartoons. Think any X-rated movie.
JIDAIGEKI — Historical manga, usually action-packed, and battle-oriented. "Lone Wolf and Cub", and "Rurouni Kenshin" are some Jidaigeki.
MECHA — Mecha manga refers to the "Giant Robot" stories such as "Gundam W", "Voltron", and "Big O." They are usually action-oriented with big fights, lots of explosions, and tend to have some kind of "save the world" angle.
BISHOUJO — A very popular manga style, full of cute girls and/or funny animals. Series that fall under this category are "Hamtaro", and "Hello Kitty".
BISHONEN — "Beautiful boy" stories — aimed at teenage girls, and featuring very pretty, almost effeminate looking heroes. Series that fall into this category include "Peach Girl", and "X/1999" by CLAMP.
A few subcategories of the above types are:
SHOUJO-AI — Literally means "girl's love" and covers female-female relationships, usually on a romantical level (aka Yuri).
SHONEN-AI — Literally means "boy's love", with story covering male-male relationships, usually on a romantical level (aka Yaoi).
KODOMO — children's manga, aimed at 6-10 year olds, an offshoot of Bishoujo, shonen, or shoujo styles. Kodomo manga include "Pokemon" and "Digimon".
500 Manga Characters
by Sweatdrop Studios
Pages: 528 (color)
Publisher: Collins Design (July 2007)
ISBN: 0061256528
Chapters:
Introduction
How to us the CD
Teenage Female Contemporary
Teenage Female Traditional Asian
Teenage Male Contemporary
Teenage Male Traditional Asian
Fantasy
Action
Sci-Fi
Historical
Gothic Lolita
Child Male
Child Female
Adult Male
Adult Female
Chibi Male
Chibi Female
Villians
Mecha
Monsters
Animals
Hardware
Software
Basic Tools
Brush Tools
Blocking in Colors
Light and Shade
Airbrush and Beyond
Artists
License Agreement
Read this book? Tell us what you thought of it! Send your review to rio[AT]mangatutorials[DOT]com. Make sure you include a reason why you like and/or dislike the book.
Book Review by Ken
This is the second volume to the Manga Clip Art series and I must say that I find it much better than the previous volume. First off, it is in the same format as the original - hardcover, a circular cut-out within the center of the book where the CD containing all the artwork is held, and it contains 128 color pages of tutorials and artwork. It is also available at the same low price of $20 USD or under depending on where you buy it.
Though only one artist is involved in this volume, Yishan Li has taken the pains to do a nice mix of manga drawing styles which will sate those of you who prefer to have a variety to work on. Aside from the differing styles Li presents, overall, the quality of her drawings are kept at a high bar so you will not find any gradeschooler-like drawn characters much to my relief.
The first third of the book instructs readers on the what's, how's, and where's of digital coloring from the materials needed to actual tutorials on coloring in cel shading, airbrushing, and painting (or natural media as they call it) style. What I really like about this first half of the book is how they walk you through into how to create the characters by adjusting, rotating, resizing, and adding layers. How to work with the materials within the book is key and much more important than learning how to color it, however nicely that part of the book is presented, and I must say that it was done in an easy-to-understand manner.
In regards to the artwork, they are divided into two sets; characters and everything else (i.e. backgrounds and accessories). The female characters within this book were set in the following fashion styles: contemporary, sci-fi, traditional Asian, traditional European, warrior, child, and kawaii (aka chibi's). Each "fashion style" features four pages of sample characters that may be made in three drawing styles done by Li. These samples feature a nifty box that shows you exactly which parts were used to make the characters and beside each character is a list of the specific part used. A rather nifty addition for those who want to ape a particular look.
For such a gender specific book, I think it would have been nice if older women were also available. All the characters within the book can be seen as, at most, middle-aged and younger but where are the grandmothers? I understand the book is marketed towards the younger generation who are more interested in their own age group or younger but I find it disappointing that the older generation are not represented in some way. If you're artistically inclined, though, this wouldn't be a problem but artistically-challenged individuals will have to make do without the golden girls.
Moving on to backgrounds and accessories, I have one thing to say: bea-u-tiful! I can't stress that enough! The backgrounds are absolutely gorgeous! The amount of details and the composition of the backgrounds are downright fantastic. I almost feel like they were taken from photos - they're that good. With such great backgrounds, I feel sort of put out that there isn't more though eight is a lot more than what was present in the first Manga Clip Art book. The accessories are just as detailed and I will say that you will find nothing to criticize (except maybe that the game console Li drew is a PSP when everyone knows that the DS is so much better! ;D ).
There is one downside to what I just said and that is with all the details found in the backgrounds, there are bound to be some things that get missed. Case in point, one particular background had lines that should've been cleaned out. Being an artist myself, things like that bother me as I consider such errors as sloppiness. For those of you who don't want to fix them or can't seem to find them, this is not really a problem as the average person who looks at drawings don't look at the details and won't see these mistakes.
Last but not least, this book is also allows buyers to use the artwork for commercial purposes. For full details on what you can and cannot do with the assets, check out the license agreement here. All artwork are is PSD format with layers intact and ready for you to manipulate. With that said, with PSD files only available in the CD, that requires you to have a software that can handle it. Though Photoshop would be the best software to use, there are free alternatives like GIMP out there for you.
Below are some scans taken from the book. Have a look!
tips ~ europe ~ modern ~ chibi 1 ~ closeup ~ manipulate ~ chibi 2 ~ fighters ~ background ~ chibi 3 ~ cg ~ asia
Langganan:
Postingan (Atom)